Studio Kuhu
Natural Dye House
I am a fashion designer and textile artist. I have previously held various roles in the fashion industry, including buyer, creative design manager, merchandiser, product developer, and consultant. Currently, I work exclusively with natural dyes and organic materials and am the founder and driving force behind Studio Kühü. I was born and raised in Mexico City. She holds a Master's degree in Luxury Fashion Business Management from Esden Fashion Business School in Spain, a degree in Fashion Business from Istituto Marangoni in Milan, and a Diploma in Sustainable Fashion colour and dyeing from Central Saint Martins.
Studio Kühü is a fashion and textile studio based in London that specialises in natural dyeing. Through a circular process and sustainability, Studio Kühü provides bespoke services as a healthier alternative to traditional textile dyeing for individuals and Fashion brands bringing textiles and clothing that tell a story filled with colour, inspired by what is available locally and seasonally, as well as the colourful botany of the American continent. Natural dyes are more than mere colours; they convey stories, symbolise identity, and connect people to Mother Earth and their history. The studio’s ethos is to document and pay homage to the wonderful properties and colourful richness of nature. Embracing the Japanese Wabi-sabi philosophy of appreciating beauty that is "imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete" in nature.
The studio only uses the highest quality organic materials, with a focus on documenting and paying tribute to the wonderful properties and colourful richness of the Americas, particularly Mexico, which is the birthplace of Mariana, the hands behind Studio Kühü. Kühü means "colour" in the Otomi language, which is still spoken in central Mexico. Studio Kühü reflects the botanical richness, ancestral heritage, artisanal mastery, avant-garde design, and visual delight.
What is so amazing about working with Natural Dyes? In exploring the impact of the textile industry's pollution, my focus has shifted towards innovative solutions rooted in craftsmanship and skill preservation. My vision centres on designing sustainable systems that embrace circularity. This ethos led me to harness iconic natural dyes from Mexico and the UK.
I've reimagined the sourcing process by partnering with local corner stores and our Garden Center to repurpose flowers and organic household waste. Instead of discarding these materials, I collect and preserve them to create dyes. Through my travels to Mexico, I've cultivated relationships with farmers and master dyers in Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca, obtaining natural Mexican dyes. Additionally, I incorporate resources like woad, madder, and other natural extracts sourced from the UK, as well as those foraged from the Somerset Forest. After dyeing fabrics with these natural pigments, the leftover dye baths are repurposed to create lake pigments, while the filtered water nourishes our urban garden. Any remaining plant material is composted after dye extraction.
Each piece we craft is meticulously hand-dyed using sustainable fabrics, infused with care and attention to detail. Our studio oversees the dyeing process, with the final pieces assembled in London, ensuring a commitment to responsible production practices throughout our supply chain.
If any/ what have been your challenges with working with these dyes and a local way of working? Working with natural dyes and embracing a local approach certainly presents its own set of challenges. Availability of certain dyes can vary seasonally or depending on the local ecosystem, which requires careful planning and flexibility in sourcing.
Moreover, working with natural dyes sometimes imposes limitations on colour consistency and shade range compared to synthetic counterparts. This requires a nuanced understanding of the dyeing process and a willingness to embrace the inherent variability of natural materials. However, despite these challenges, the benefits of working with natural dyes and adopting a local approach far outweigh the obstacles. The unique hues and textures obtained from natural sources add depth and character to our creations while supporting local communities and promoting sustainable practices that align with our ethos of responsible innovation. It's a journey marked by creativity, perseverance, and a deep appreciation for the richness of nature and craftsmanship. I wish that in the future I find a traditional dyeing mill that would be keen to partner with and use natural dyes and escalate my services with more professional equipment for more efficiency.
Do you finish onsite? If not, is it convenient or what would be your ideal situation? All the dyeing is made in my studio located in Camden, London, as part of the artist community of Bow Arts Camden Studios.
Do you find a lot of push back in the industry in terms of working with Natural Dyes? Some will think this is a step back, but I believe manufacturers may express doubt due to several factors, including concerns about colour fastness, limited shade range, and the need to modify existing processes. Colour fastness is a primary consideration, as natural dyes can exhibit different durability characteristics compared to their synthetic counterparts. Ensuring colours remain vibrant and stable over time is essential to meeting industry standards and customer expectations. Additionally, the inherently variable nature of natural dyes can pose challenges in achieving consistent colour results. Manufacturers accustomed to precise colour matching and reproducibility may find this aspect of natural dyeing a challenge. Modifying existing production processes to adapt to natural dyes may also require investments in equipment, training, and workflow adjustments. This may deter reluctant manufacturers from deviating from established practices or incurring additional costs. Despite these challenges, there is growing awareness and appreciation for the environmental and aesthetic benefits of natural dyes. By addressing concerns through education, research and collaboration, we can work to overcome industry resistance and encourage greater acceptance of natural dyeing practices.
Do you find that customers are becoming more interested in Natural Dyes? There is a noticeable trend of increasing customer interest in natural dyes. More brands and designers in London are becoming conscious about creating clothing that is environmentally friendly and free from chemicals and toxins. They are embracing the narrative behind natural dyes, which includes its historical significance, cultural heritage, and locality. This adds an element of storytelling and authenticity to their clothes, and they appreciate the craftsmanship and tradition that goes into producing natural dyes. As a result, they are supporting local communities. My clients are mainly bridal designers, womenswear designers and individuals.
On a scale of 1- 10 (1 being the lowest and 10 excellent) how much do you think your business has improved in the below areas as a result of good working practices and environmental standards?
Waste Production (off-cuts, production) - 10
Plastic Pollution (packaging) - 10
Water Wastage (dyeing and finishing) - 8
Energy Consumption (shipping, machinery etc) - 9
Do you have any dyers or people in your supply chain you would like to highlight? Wild Colours.