Highland Wool CIC
Farmers and Fleece Processors
The Hirsel is a nature friendly farm raising heritage breed livestock, located just outside of Ardgay in the Scottish Highlands. Owned by the Gillies family since 1969, it sat dormant for 30 years before Donald and Donna Gillies took it over in 2015 and began its rejuvenation. They don’t use pest/herbicides, and fertilizer comes directly from their Hebridean sheep in a rotational grazing system, and from seaweed, green manures, and compost. They’’ve been ‘highly commended’ by the RBST for their work, began transforming their pastures to a native meadow/hay mix as part of an environmental support scheme, and are working to adapt their grazing schedules to promote wildlife and native plant life.
They’re also supporting others with the same nature-friendly ethos, such as Highland Wool CIC, a farmer/crofter/crafter driven initiative set up at the farm in 2022 “to support a sustainable wool industry in Scotland”. Currently resident in a collection of the farm’s outbuildings, Highland Wool’s plans include renovating the 200-year-old stone barn to house a low energy mini-mill which incorporates water recycling, renewable energy, and a reintroduction of the human element to the processing regime. This mill will wash and card small batches (25k max) of fleece from farms and crofts across the Highlands and Islands. Highland Wool CIC is part of the growing network of hand spinners, weavers, and wool businesses that make up a vibrant woolly community across the Highlands & Islands.
Websites: www.thehirsel.com & www.highlandwool.scot
What is so amazing about working with British wool? Working with British wool supports farmers and crofters, as well as the breeds themselves, many of which are “at risk”. It also reconnects us with our ancestors, history and culture. And there is no lack of variety: there’s a fleece for every purpose, right here in Britain.
If any/ what have been your challenges with working with British wool and a local way of working? When Donald and I brought sheep onto the farm in 2015, we chose for the type of land we live on, and the heritage of this area. Hebrideans, being descended from the now extinct Scottish Dunface, are part of the culture of Scotland going back to the original human settlers. And while their fleeces have been undervalued for many years, there was a time when they were so valued for creating long-wearing and weather resistant clothing, that the small farmers who raised them wouldn’t sell them to visitors. So when I saw the prices British Wool were paying for Heb fleeces in 2016, and factored in our concern about sustainability re transport miles, and cultural issues surrounding sending our Scottish fleeces to England for onward sale…we walked away from them, and I started learning to process the wool myself to sell as rugs, carded batts, small felted items. Then we found that our story wasn’t unique, but familiar to farmers across the Highlands and Islands raising small flocks, especially of heritage breed sheep. That’s how we first thought of building something to serve our needs, as well as the area’s. Research and a local workshop put us in touch with others who see the need for small wool mills to return, and some of them joined us to build Highland Wool CIC.
The challenge: we are all farmers, crofters, or crafters, and juggling those responsibilities – plus the lack of financial resources that comes with being small farmers and small businesses - with building a mill has meant it’s taken longer to get off the ground than we’d hoped. BUT it’s also made us build the company and its services to fit our and our community’s lives, which we think will result in higher chance of long-term success. Also: the Hirsel is a small farm on its own water supply, so the mill has to remain small to fit the farm and its resources. The need is larger than this mill could ever serve, and resisting the pressure to go large has been a challenge. But again: these challenges have forced us to create a business that fits its environment, its people, its resources, and is being built with recycling and low-impact, low-energy use in its bones. It’s also forced us to see ourselves as a part of the solution, rather than the entire answer (which lessens the expectations-related stress), and we are actively speaking with others about their plans to build other parts of a production network.
What gauge of Knitwear do you sell? i.e fine gauge 10-12gg or more chunky knits such as 7-5gg? We don’t sell finished products at this stage. We sell ingredients for others to make products from.
Do you finish onsite? If not, is it convenient or what would be your ideal situation? Not at this time. We only wash and card raw fleece, and prep raw fleeces for onward sale.
Do you find a lot of push back in the industry in terms of working with British wool? No. As one supporter said, our timing means we are ‘pushing at an open door’. More and more people who are concerned about the damage ‘fast fashion’ does to our environment, are beginning to see the value of locally produced British wool. In fact, the developments in the fashion industry serve as inspiration for us.
Do you find that customers are becoming more interested in British wool? Yes, and our local customers are particularly interested Scottish wool, for the story, heritage, and particularly re sustainability issues.
On a scale of 1- 10 (1 being the lowest and 10 excellent) how much do you think your business has improved in the below areas as a result of good working practices and environmental standards?
Waste Production - 10 (off-cuts, production)
Plastic Pollution - 9 (packaging)
Water Waste - 10 (dyeing and finishing)
Energy Consumption - 9 (shipping, machinery etc)
Do you have any hero farmers or people in your supply chain you would like to highlight?....Those on the board of Highland Wool, and our supporters, without whom we wouldn’t exist: https://www.highlandwool.scot/blank-3. Also, Lochview Rural Training, who keeps up a steady schedule of wool-based workshops.