Woven in the Bone
Weaving mill
Woven in the Bone is an artisan weaving mill in on the Moray Firth coast in the North East of Scotland using vintage machinery and foot-treadle looms supplying woollen cloth to bespoke tailors and small brands around the world.
With a lifetime of experience working in the textile industries of Scotland and Australia, the mill is run by Sam Goates (with the help of her trying-to-retire sisters) who works to promote wool and weaving at both industry and artisan level, celebrating craft skills in the workplace and the beauty and importance of wool to the textile industry.
Scotland has a rich and distinct heritage of woven woollen cloth. Local British and imported wool yarns are used, each with distinctive characters. Each has a place in providing warmth, protection, style and comfort, continuing past heritage and contributing to a sustainable future.
What is so amazing about working with British wool?
I am a fan of wool wherever it is from but of course there is something particularly satisfying to make cloth from wool that has been grown and processed locally, and by that I mean in the UK. The storytelling around the different characteristics of different, and sometimes rare, breeds that have been raised and cared for by people who can connect us with the land where they live and work.
If any/ what have been your challenges with working with British Wool and a local way of working?
As a very small production weaving mill, I have many people who approach me to work on developing cloth from their own wool. The challenges are usually around volume for scouring vs expense for smaller scale yarn production. Also the farmers experience of taking textile product to market, and their knowledge/expectations of what their wool is best suited for.
What weaving looms do you use and how many do you have?
Hattersley Domestic semi-automatic foot-treadle looms x 3
Do you find a lot of push back in the industry in terms of working with British wool?
I offer a range of cloths so those that are looking for a softer cloth have options, but there are also small brands that actively pursuing a British Wool story.
Do you finish onsite? If not, is it convenient or what would be your ideal situation?
I send my cloth to Schofields Dyers and Finishers and they are wonderful.
Do you find a lot of push back in the industry in terms of working with British wool
I offer a range of cloths so those that are looking for a softer cloth have options, but there are also small brands that actively pursuing a British Wool story.
Do you find that customers are becoming more interested in British wool?
Yes, definitely.
On a scale of 1- 10 (1 being the lowest and 10 excellent) how much do you think your business has improved in the below areas as a result of good working practices and environmental standards?
Not sure about the question… improved since when? I’m assuming since I started 10 years ago.
Waste Production (off-cuts, production) - 6 (production unchanged but taking tentative steps to utilise it commercially)
Plastic Pollution (packaging) - 7 (making changes to reduce)
Energy Consumption (shipping, machinery etc) - 5 (Have acquired more machinery but all vintage/secondhand)
Do you have any hero farmers or people in your supply chain you would like to highlight
Supplier - Maria Benjamin/DodgsonWood – incredible smart and proactive entrepreneur & collaborator
Farmer - James Rebanks – inspirational farmer and writer
My customer - Paul Vincent at SEH Kelly – menswear brand in London who makes incredible pieces in natural, undyed Herdwick blend wool that I weave from yarn from DodgsonWood/James Rebanks. His branding and storytelling is STANDOUT
Customer/spinner - UIST WOOL – amazing community development project that is walking the talk
Farmers - Joan & Ernie Strachan, Aberdeenshire – Scottish Bowmont Merino, their wool is spun at Uist Wool and I weave shawls/wraps for Uist Wool
Customer - Rebecca Donaldson of Chocflock – passionate smallholder and promoter of Castlemilk Moorit sheep
Supplier – SCHOFIELDS DYERS and FINISHERS – without whom I wouldn’t have a business (nor would many other mills!!!)
Customer – Michael Kristie of The Iron Snail – an enthusiastic young entrepreneurial menswear brand in New York with a strong focus on materials and provenance. His first Limited Edition run was in Herdwick and I’m currently working on a new British Wool cloth which will be promoted with video/storytelling/educational promo on the processing of British Wool.
I think the work I do for SEH Kelly is a brilliant and successful example of taking a low value wool (mindfully & regeneratively grown by James Rebanks) and value-adding through UK processing (DodgsonWood via Gardiners Yarns), artisan weaving (Woven In The Bone/Schofields Finishing)) and stunning garment design and production (SEH Kelly) which is then exported worldwide in a new coat style each year to a loyal and appreciative audience.